Welcome to one of the most enjoyable journeys you will ever embark on. Once you begin to understand pig instincts, behaviors, vocalisms, personality, no other animal will ever seem quite the same in comparison. There is just something so unique about a pig. Unlike most dogs, a miniature pig’s trust is very hard earned. They are extremely discerning about whom they decide to be friends with. The most important thing to remember is that these highly intelligent beings have been taken away from their natural habitat.

If we are expecting them to be household pets or even lawn ornaments, we have asked them to adapt to a world that is foreign to them. It is up to us to understand them and their needs, not for them to have their behaviors “modified” to fit our idea of what an ideal pet should be. People who have cultivated excellent relationships with their pigs are those who have studied the workings of the porcine mind, the true nature of the little critters, and created an environment that gives the pigs what they need in order to be happy, well adjusted companion.

Things to know from the start:

• Pigs are born knowing that they are on the menu for many. Their moms do not carry them around by the scruff of the neck like a feline or canine. The only things that would like to pick them up and carry them usually plan on making a meal of them. For this reason, they are terrified to be picked up. Anything coming up above their heads (like your hand) is seen as a threat to their very lives.
• Their only real defense besides running away is to scream so loud that any creature with ears located in any proximity to its mouth is going to wish it had never picked up a creature that can outdo jet engines in a decibel contest. It is also a way of alerting other pigs who will in turn run to see what is wrong and start a large chorus of barking in unison that is also very disarming.
• Piglets operate on the “piggy see-piggy do” principal. As piglets, they usually go to the bathroom together and one will start to run, spin, bark and play they will all follow suit. The same goes for naptime and time to get up. They learn behaviors from watching mom and what works for their siblings.
• They live in a matriarchal society. Females rule the roost. They hopefully have very definite friends that they like to spend time with and can become very bonded. These friends will usually sleep together each night. Pigs love being with other pigs. Family ties can also be very strong in pigs that are allowed to remain together throughout their lives. Although they may befriend an animal of another species, they need the company of their own kind to truly live the life that pigs were intended to enjoy. Females usually gravitate towards other females and males likewise. There are always exceptions to this.
• Single pigs have a higher degree of aggression towards humans than do pigs that live in multiple pig households. In a pig herd, the piglets learn their place at the bottom of the social rung with frequent reminders by all the adults in the herd. When they are asked to move or give up a favorite feeding spot, they are expected to do so without any fuss. If they do not leave, they will get a firm nip on the rump to remind them to move. The older pigs will practice this with the piglets or newest arrival in the herd until it is automatic for the subordinate to move as soon as the dominant pig walks up behind or beside. As a pig nears two years of age, it is their time to challenge others for a more dominant position in the herd. If its only herdmates are people, this often leads to problems.
• A “swipe” is a pig’s way of telling another pig that they are stressed/unhappy and that things may escalate if whatever is going on continues. It is their way of communicating. Aggression is usually very silent in the pig world. Very violent fights erupt and the only sounds may be a body against a fence or a shriek when an ear or lip is caught.
• Pigs are not “face” animals. One must be very, a very close friend with a pig to get too close to its face. A good way to get a nasty bite is to put your face up to a piglet like you would a puppy that is used to communicating by licking its mom’s mouth as a way of communication.
• Pigs do not see well. Their bodies are not designed for much body language. They rely on their vocalizations to get their message across. Piglets loudly let their mothers know when they are hungry and a mother pig calls to her babies when she is ready to feed or when she lets her milk down while they nurse. Pigs out grazing in the woods or tall grass constantly grunt to one another to keep in touch with where the others are. Pigs bedding down have a very distinctive conversation to tell other pigs not to step on them or take too much of the covers. This same grumbling is to be expected if we awaken them or step across them in the hallway. It is just their way of communication to us in the only way they can. Always respect what they have to say. Pigs have a very keen sense of self and a real dignity about them. They appreciate those that understand that and act accordingly.
• Pigs that are impaired by blindness or significantly lame can be aggressive towards people and have a very difficult time adjusting to a new environment. They are very aware that they are vulnerable and take longer to earn the trust. Give them extra time and lots of gentle words and encouragement. Never do anything to make their worst fears about people come true. They have been through enough without us scolding them for taking their very survival seriously. They certainly have that right and the need to express their feelings on matters of such importance.
• Pigs are designed to be active. In a natural state they are rooting under logs and in soft dirt as well as eating roughage throughout most of the day. All but the elderly or very lame should be able to run at a good clip, jump over small ditches, have the energy to trot from place to place or even do some spins when the weather cools down. If they are too fat, they will not be able to do these things and measures need to be taken to get the pig back into condition. To allow them to be so fat that all they do is lie around all day is a terrible disservice to the animal and will shorten its life by years. To expect them to adapt to being left alone all day in a small pen or inside of a house is also a disservice to such an active, intelligent and curious animals. Many people have become disenchanted with their new pig due to damage to yards, carpets, walls, plants etc… but all the pig was doing is what pigs have been doing for thousands upon thousands of years. To expect them to do anything else is not realistic or fair to the animal.

The Socialization Process

It is best to have a quiet enclosed place to begin the process. It is a myth that a pig must be segregated to “tame” it and having more than one pig in the family will not make them any less attached to the people they share their lives with. Because they are such “copy cats”, they will learn from watching another pig how good it feels to be scratched or that nothing horrible happens if a human touches you. When the first piglet in a litter goes down for its first belly rub, you will often see others keel over as well even though they have yet to be touched. Everyone else wants a piece of whatever is feeling that good! I have also seen groups within a herd learn to sit for treats simply by watching one pig do so. There is usually one bold Columbus type in each litter. Utilize that one to show the others that you are to be trusted and in fact bring tidings of great pleasure. For single pigs in quarantine, a cat can often model the behavior that people are safe and provide good feelings through touch. Our cat Percy actually seems to understand the process and acts like a literal “go between” by carrying scent and gentleness between us and the pig. I have also had great progress by letting a pig watch another pig be loved on by me through the fence.

Don’t attempt to touch a pig until it is comfortable having you in close proximity while it eats. Desensitization while the pig eats is the key. Start by staying low to the ground. Gradually get the pig used to your standing up and moving around without running from its food bowl. This is like learning to dance. The pig will tell you if you are moving too fast and that will be your clue to slow down and back off a bit. They are also remarkably forgiving creatures in many ways. Just because you make a mistake and scare the pig, or it must have an unpleasant procedure during this juncture, does not mean that all is back to square one. But, if an unpleasant procedure does need to be done at this time, let someone else do it if possible.

After the pig is comfortable with you squatting by the bowl while eating, put your hand in a position where it will have to brush against your hand to get the food. The decision of the pig to touch your hand while eating will not take long if you have done your homework of being in close proximity without fear.

Put your hand in different positions around the bowl for the pig to touch and gradually let your hand be in the bowl holding some of the food. If the pig eats out of your flat hand in the bowl, gently raise it up so that the pig is eating out of your raised hand. Slowly begin to rub other parts of the pig’s body as it eats. If you are moving too fast, the pig will let you know. With many pigs this process will need to begin on the cheeks and under the neck rather than up on top of the head. Under the tummy and heart girth is usually a ticklish spot. Let them get used to it at their pace and it will soon be a favorite spot to have you scratch.

As the pig becomes more comfortable, it is time to sit on the floor and let it explore you. Often they gravitate to your shoes and in the case of piglets-shoestrings. Some pigs will need to “taste” you. This is best done with heavy clothing on and hands tucked away. This is natural and nothing to view as aggression. Some will also want to crawl on you. That is fine as well. They have a need to do this and does not equate with a pig seeing itself as dominant once you stand up and become a person again.

Give the pig bigger food like a half of a carrot or big piece of banana out of your hand. They will learn to come to you and associate you with good things. The important thing is that they have to “work” for their food and you do not become seen as a mere food dispenser. They can sit, spin, or come when called in order to get a treat.

Now that the pig is comfortable, it is time to take your relationship to the next level. This is when the pig knows that you adore it and have only good intentions. It is then that the pig begins to seek you out for friendship. Once you have found that secret spot on the pig that they cannot resist being scratched on, they will begin to seek you out. They will walk up and their “Mohawk” will stand up in anticipation of good things to come. Even if they have their pig buddies, they will want to come to you for that special bond that you have so carefully developed.

If you want to begin harness training at this juncture, do so again while the pig is eating in an enclosed area. After you can place the specially designed pig harness on the pig without worrying him or her, then you can attach the lead. Take care to never have the back portion of the harness fastened while the front is unfastened. If this back harness slips back towards the pigs flank, you will have a very unhappy pig on your hands.

When you first attach the lead, let the pig lead you and do not apply any direct pressure. Over a course of days, let the pig feel more gentle resistance that causes no harm. Pull them gently to the side and teach them with a treat to come to a side pull. If they do “spook” and try to run forward against the lead in the enclosed area, create a situation where the pig stops and then get it to turn in towards you for a treat. Make it automatic that when they feel pressure that they turn towards you for a treat.

Ask the pig to follow with a shaker of feed and stop and treat when the pig follows along. If the pig does not have a “good mouth” again use a bigger food item. Once they are good at this in the small area, they are ready to go out and practice.

Many people have problems having piglets that do not want to be picked up. We never force our pigs to be picked up but rather let them crawl into laps and then arms to find treats and comfort. If the pig finds this enjoyable, this process gradually leads to standing up and holding the pig. Some pigs find this so enjoyable that they will ask to be picked up. If the pig is absolutely not interested and terrified at being picked up, that is OK because in the vast majority of cases, carrying such a heavy animal is not a desirable activity once it is grown. Better to spend your time harness training the pig so you can control it when fully grown. Your best friend will be a crate as the pig gets too big to carry and you need to take it to the vet or other places. Much easier to lift a stationary crate than a 150 lb wiggle worm of a pig. Always have a way to get your pig moved in an emergency.

Good luck to all who embark on this. There is no better friend to have than a pig! Let us know if we can help in any way or answer any questions.

© 2006 by Lorelei Pulliam